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Food Apartheid: Recontextualizing Food Inequity in Black America

By Shameema Imam

“Disembodiment is a kind of terrorism, and the threat of it alters the orbit of our lives, and like terrorism, this distortion is intentional. Disembodiment.”

- Ta-Nehesi Coates, Between the World and Me

Food Apartheid: Recontextualizing Food Inequity in Black America

Why Food “Apartheid”?

The death of the grocery store in urban America was conceived from a torrent of mass relocation from inner-city neighborhoods to the suburbs as a means to avoid the socio-political changes of the civil rights movement. “White Flight,” as the phenomenon is appropriately named, effectively withdrew a large portion of economic resources, businesses, and investments that supported areas of black development–specifically in the food sector. Today, grocery stores and their adjacent chains continue to ostracize predominantly low-income black neighborhoods, subsequently creating food deserts, or residential communities where access to healthy and affordable food is severely limited.

The term “food desert,” though commonly used, is problematic and regressive as it masks the structural issues that prevented over 9 million Black Americans from accessing enough food to lead a healthy, active life in 2023 [1]. The word “desert” insinuates that these areas are small, insignificant, and barren–home to a select few unfortunates–when in fact, they are the result of decades of institutional neglect and racist policies. According to a study by the Fordham Urban Law Journal, over 150 American towns found that zoning ordinances in low-income communities were much less likely to incentivise grocery stores and supermarkets from cultivating business there [2]. These ordinances had the tendency to create concentrated areas of poverty unappealing to businesses as the property value and leasing directly next to these pockets of poverty skyrocketed, ultimately causing stores to turn to more affluent areas where a net gain and maximum profit was guaranteed. This consequently created a cyclical pattern because when towns failed to accumulate wealth over time, they became designated areas of avoidance for grocery chains.

As activist Karen Washington argues, the term "food desert" is an outsider’s label that reduces people living in these communities to a statistic, instead of recognizing the injustices that give rise to food inequity in the first place. Washington's disdain for the desert label is clear considering during an interview with The Guardian she asserted, “deserts are natural and have food, food deserts are man made—not natural” [3]. Additionally, when one thinks of the word desert their imagination immediately turns to tumbleweed rolling across a sandy, arid landscape absent of life.With this Saharan image in mind, sociological “deserts” suggest that conditions of food inequity are inherent to black and brown neighborhoods or that grocery chains have simply naturally declined, completely ignoring the history of economic segregation in low-income areas of color. It is in this description of a dry, “dying” wasteland that we preemptively bury citizens lacking equitable food access while they are alive and well.

Instead, the term "food apartheid" is gaining traction among food justice leaders, as it more accurately reflects the racialized nature of food inequality. Apartheid, a system of institutionalized segregation and discrimination, is precisely the framework needed to understand how these communities were intentionally excluded from access to healthy food through racist zoning laws, redlining, and the disinvestment in Black and Brown neighborhoods. In fact, “food apartheid” rightfully shifts the conversation from the physical location of supposed “food deserts,” as no particular neighborhood is safe from systemic discrimination. Linguistically changing how we describe food apartheid can subsequently change the broader attitudes and perception to victims of inequity.

The experience of food apartheid, much like the broader experience of racial oppression, is one of disempowerment and detachment from one's own body.In his touching work Between the World and Me, Ta-Nehisi Coates uses the term "disembodiment" to describe the devastating effects of racial oppression [4]. He applies this term not only in the context of the physical brutality of police violence, but also in a more metaphysical sense, referring to how racism robs individuals of their agency and humanity. When a community is denied access to healthy food, it is a reflection of a larger system that has been structured to view these individuals as less than human,thus less deserving of proper, nutritious food in comparison to their white counterparts.

Food Apartheid: Recontextualizing Food Inequity in Black America

The Science of Food Inequity and A Growing Public Health Crisis in Black and Brown Communities

Besides the social and living experiences caused by lack of equitable food sources in over 6,500 areas across the United States, food apartheid also has a tangible effect on the health of its governing bodies, with some medically concerning statistics having emerged that show a steady increase in food related health problems within the Black community [5]. There is a common misconception that areas experiencing food injustice lack access to food period, when this is not necessarily true. In fact, the larger issue is that the food that is readily available is considered unhealthy or junk food. Areas highly saturated with unhealthy food options have previously been referred to as “food swamps”, with the National Library of Medicine stating that counties with higher concentrations of fast food availability have 77% higher odds of obesity related mortality [6].

Moreover, a poor diet, which is linked to the consumption of junk food, also plays a major role in exacerbating hereditary issues such as heart disease and cancer. Sugar-filled diets have the tendency to be the fuel for cancer growth and the uncontrollable division of cells, while high LDL cholesterol found in fatty snacks and prepackaged food are typical accelerators of heart disease. The harmful effects of a poor diet are only further perpetuated by a self-fulfilling prophecy, where the consumption of highly processed junk foods lead to neuroinflammation in the brain, which subsequently drives cravings for even more unhealthy foods. Studies have shown that even a few days of consuming sugar snacks can trigger inflammation in the hippocampus, the section of the brain that regulates hunger and fullness signals, creating a vicious cycle of overeating the wrong foods. Managing junk food is already considered a precarious issue for most of America, however, when compounded by circumstances of living within a food apartheid region—one needn’t imagine how difficult it is to maintain any sort of autonomy about your health and wellbeing.

Additionally, the cycle of food related health problems in the Black community has essentially become a generational curse that is passed on from parent to child, year after year. In 2022, one in three Black children lived without reliable access to food, an alarming statistic highlighting the ongoing struggle against food insecurity [1]. In 2019, non-hispanic Black adults were twice as likely to die from diabetes while the youth statistics unfortunately parallel these numbers, as in the same year, Black children were found to be twice as likely to die from diabetes [7]. These children were also found to be at a higher risk for other chronic illnesses linked to unhealthy lifestyles such as hypertension, gastroesophageal reflux disease(GERD), and liver disease.

The lack of food sovereignty in low-income black and brown communities leaves people disconnected from the very act of consuming food, as it is governed by forces beyond their control. This detachment from the ability to choose what they consume is not simply an inconvenience, but a direct effect of being treated as insignificant in a system that has wounded low-income communities for decades. By being reduced to unfortunate recipients of government assistance and aid, with little to no say on how their food is distributed or consumed, people affected by food apartheid are alienated entirely from what it feels like to be an active participant in one’s own health.

Food for Thought: A Call to Action

Promoting self-determination to acquire healthy food options as a right of every living person is of utmost importance if the true goal of public health is the wellbeing of every community. Although it is legitimized through both institutionalized neglect and economic segregation, food inequity is, at its root, a social construct. A conscious effort must be made to dismantle the sort of “intentional terrorism” that Ta-Nehesis Coates connects with the intentional disembodiment of Brown and Black folks throughout history, thus the nutritional lives of real people must be prioritized over corporate profit margins [4].

Tomorrow's equitable healthcare is born today in the minds who center justice in their journey within the medical field. There was not one simple cause that led to development of food apartheid in the United States, and there will not be one simple solution to dismantle it either. Healthcare professionals, legislators, and community members must work cooperatively to promote farmers markets, equitable urban planning, and other initiatives that mitigate disparities in nutritional health. Although fixing food injustice on the national level can feel like an extremely daunting task, there are a number of local programs that utilize volunteerism or activism from students like us to not only raise awareness, but create tangible change within the community. Online market ProduceTheBox works in conjunction with Raleigh-Durham YMCA’s to run a fresh produce drive that delivers boxes of local fruits and veggies to over 750 every other week [8]. Additionally, there's been an increased emphasis on making sure farmers in rural areas have the means to provide for their community through the North Carolina Community Transformation Project and its adjacent grants. Of many solutions to challenge food apartheid, the most important is a plethora of advocates who use their voices to amplify that of the voiceless. The destruction of food apartheid will give life to a brighter future where nutritional agency is the norm and systemic health issues cease to exist. Until we address and dismantle the root causes of food apartheid, a certain hunger for change will remain unsatisfied, leaving millions with empty stomachs instead of a plate full of opportunity.

Food Apartheid: Recontextualizing Food Inequity in Black America

Review Editor: Abigail Winslow
Design Editor: Haynes Lewis

[1] Carter L. (2024). Food Insecurity in the Black Community. Jersey City, NJ: Coalition for Food and Health Equity. Food Insecurity in the Black Community Coalition for Food and Health Inequity
[2] Parlow M. (2017). Fordham Urban Law Journal: Healthy Zoning. Orange, CA: Chapman University Fowler School of Law. Fordham Urban Law Journal: Healthy Zoning
[3] Lakhani N. (2-21). “The Food System is Racist”: An Activist Used a Garden to Tackle Inequalities. New York City, NY: The Guardian. The Guardian Interviews Karen Washingtons Garden of Happiness
[4] Coates T. (2015). Between the World and Me. New York City, NY: Spiegel & Grau
[5] Dutko P., Ver Pleong M., Farrigan T. (2012). Characteristics and Influential Factors of Food Deserts. ERR-140: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service. Characteristics and Influential Factors of Food Deserts
[6] Bevel M., Tsai M.H., Parham A., Andrzejak S., Jones S., Moore J. (2023). Associations of Food Deserts and Food Swamps With Obesity-Related Cancer Mortality in the US. Bethesda, MN: National Library of Medicine. Association of Food Deserts and Food Swamps With Obesity-Related Cancer Mortality in the US - PMC
[7] (2022). Diabetes and African-Americans. Rockville, MD: U.S. Department of Health and Human Services: Office of Minority Health Diabetes and African Americans | Office of Minority Health.
[8] Do You Live In A Food Desert?. Raleigh, NC: TheProduceBox https://theproducebox.com/food-deserts-in-north-carolina/

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